If your dog is frightened of strangers, other dogs, the car or the hoover, you’ll often hear the same advice: take them where it happens, and they’ll get used to it. Sometimes that seems to work. Often it doesn’t. A frightened dog who can’t get away may go quiet and look as if they’re coping, while the fear underneath grows. Some start to defend themselves instead.
There’s a gentler way, which trainers call desensitisation and counterconditioning. In plain words, it means changing how the scary thing feels, a little at a time.
How it works
- Find the starting distance. Far enough away that your dog notices the scary thing but stays relaxed: they can still eat, sniff and look at you.
- Pair it with something wonderful. The person appears in the distance, and chicken starts raining from the sky. The person leaves, and the chicken stops. The order matters: the scary thing comes first, then the good thing.
- Keep sessions short and easy. A few repetitions, then stop while your dog is still happy.
- Repeat over days and weeks. Gradually your dog starts to think: “that person means chicken!” You’ll see it when they spot the person and look to you, expectantly.
- Move closer only when your dog is clearly comfortable, and only a little at a time. You can also make the scary thing smaller instead: quieter, slower, shorter.
The key is the distance
This is not about facing fears. If your dog is already worried (stiff, staring, ears back, not taking food), they’re too close to learn anything. Calmly move further away, and next time start further back. A session where your dog stays relaxed throughout is a good session, however small it looks.
A real-life example
Say your dog barks and lunges at other dogs on walks. You might start in a quiet field where dogs pass on a path a long way off. Each time a dog appears, you feed tiny pieces of chicken; when it’s gone, the chicken stops. Over several weeks, you watch for your dog to see a distant dog and turn to you for chicken. Only then do you choose a spot a little closer.
Things that make it harder
- Surprises. Choose places and times where you can control the distance, and have an escape route.
- Too many scary things at once. Work on one, and keep the rest of life quiet.
- Using it as a way to push closer. The aim is a dog who feels differently, not a dog who tolerates more.
It takes patience, and progress is measured in weeks and months rather than days. But the change goes deeper than “getting used to it”. Your dog isn’t just putting up with the scary thing. They’re learning to feel differently about it.
When to ask for help
Getting the distances and steps right for your own dog can be tricky, especially if they’ve already snapped or bitten, or if there are several things that scare them. If you’re not sure how to start, ask for help. It’s much easier with someone alongside you.